Saint Louis du Senegal

Suggested Tours

Canarias — 2008-11-12T10:32:18Z

Planification and advice

Below are some suggested routes and places to visit during your time in St-Louis that you can navigate on your own. Take time before coming to plan what you have in mind, what sounds like fun and how long you want to stay. There are parks, beaches, historical sites and traditional villages, all well worth the time. Some advice:

• Have plenty of water with you, including some frozen bottles if you can since they warm quickly in the heat.

• Stop and fill up on gasoline whenever you get the chance since you don't always know when you will see another gas station.

• During the rainy season or immediately after many roads are closed off. Some areas of the region remain cutoff. For that reason, our recommendation is that you better visit the region between November and May / June.

• Check weather and road conditions before setting off and have a back up plan in case you cannot visit a certain area.

3 Day Tour

Arrival

A good start to your three day stay is by arriving Thursday evening. There are plenty of great choices of places to stay on the island, there is a range of prices from the budget option, Auberge de Jeunesse, to slightly more expensive as the Auberge La Louisiane or higher end like the historic Hotel de la Poste. You may also choose to lodge in Sor, the continent, or the Hydrobase on the beach. Get a good night's rest to take full advantage of your next day.

Day 1: RSFG / PLNB

Rise early and make your way south of the city to la Reserve Speciale de Faune de Guembeul (RSFG). Once you are at the park, you will get more from your visit if you request that one of the guides take you to inner look out points, a short, easy and pleasant hike through the acacias and scrubby plant life.

When you have concluded your visit at Guembeul, head down to the Langue de Barbarie National Park (PNLB), where you can eat lunch at the Heron Cendre, the restaurant run by the park's guides or at the nearby Zebrabar. A visit in the park can include a guided boat tour of the river and the nesting island, a bike ride, or a hike. You may want to plan ahead and spend a night at the Langue de Barbarie instead of in St-Louis at the one of the four campements or camp on the beach with the special permission of the park.

If you decide to return to St-Louis, your second evening can be spent chatting in one of the many great restaurants like La Louisiane, La Residence or L'Aldiana and, if you like, there is live music throughout the city at different locations like the Bou El Mogdad, La Taverne, or the Marco Jazz all on the island. If you want a low-key, local option, hop in a taxi to Sor and ask for La Source on the corniche; you may want to save room for the warthog brochettes.

Day 2: St-Louis town (S-L)

Your second morning is a great time to eat a yummy pain au chocolate and coffee at the Delices de Fleuve and set out to explore the city walking leisurely or hailing a horse drawn caleche with a local guide. Or, head to the beach on the Hydrobase or spend some hours by the pool of the Mermoz, the Oasis, or the Valentine Paradise (inquire about prices). For lunch, we recommend the popular La Linguere where you can choose a Senegalese dish or a more familiar option like chicken and pommes frites. Another recommendation is L'Auberge le Pelicain on the Hydrobase atop the terrace.

After lunch, browse through the many shops and the historic buildings and be sure to check out the Village Artisanal to see artists at work on their handicrafts and support the local artisans. The city has two marketplaces that are truly mazes and prices are better for some items.

Before the day is done, take time to organize your visit to Djoudj the next day. That night you will want to get plenty of sleep and rise early to get to Djoudj Bird Sanctuary and take in all the sights.

Day 3: PNOD

Once at the park most people opt for the guided boat tour, where, depending on the season, you may get to see the 14,000 pelicans that come to nest (November to March). Even if the season is not right, you will no doubt spot herons, egrets, kingfishers, ducks, stilts, terns, and if you are very lucky a crocodile and her young. Some seasons are better for seeing flamingoes as well (scattered throughout the year).

You can also choose to take a bike ride or hike. Before leaving make sure to stop in the little boutique operated by the women of the surrounding villages where they sell their handicraft.

Rest from your day's activities as you drive through the savanna back to the city, concluding your three-day vacation in St-Louis.

4 Day Visit

Day 1 & 2: RSFG / PNLB and S-L

For a four day visit, we recommend spending the first two days like in the three day visit: split your first full day, after arriving the evening before, between Guembeul and Langue de Barberie, returning to listen to some live music in St-Louis. On the second you can get to know the city of St-Louis, strolling along the lively streets, combing through the shops, poking around the marketplaces or unwinding on the beach.

Day 3: Towns on the river The third day is a great opportunity to see the river and its towns. You have the option of taking a sept place (public transportation) straight to Podor, a city alive with history yet pleasantly slow-paced. Here you can visit the Fort and its museum and the historic quais (quay) where the Bou El Mogdad docks from its trip up the Senegal River from St-Louis. You can easily find a place to eat, a marketplace to rummage through, and sit at the river's edge soaking in the surroundings before heading back to St-Louis.

The other option is to rent a car. This is attractive for several reasons; you can make stops all along the way visiting historic sites and towns at your own pace. We also recommend stopping at the Gite d'Etape in Richard Toll, where you can eat lunch, take a dip in the pool, or take a plunge into the river.

Having a vehicle also allows you to go straight to Djoudj Bird Sanctuary to spend the night after your sejour into the interior. At Djoudj you have three options for spending the night: the Biological Station, the Hotel Djoudj and the Campement Njaagabar. Nighttime at Djoudj is magical and a stroll around will reveal an amazing view of the stars and the sounds of nocturnal creatures like frogs and insects. Make sure to bring repellent!!

If you don't have a vehicle, no worries! Head back to St-Louis, rest up, savor a great dinner, and set off again in the morning to discover the Djoudj.

Day 4: PNOD

An early morning is truly the best. Take full advantage of the day, eat lunch and head back to St-Louis later in the day, bringing to a close your four day trip in the region of the Senegal River.

7 Day Visit (I)

Vehicle Highly Recommended

Day 1: Saint-Louis (S-L)

A seven day visit is an excellent opportunity to really experience the city and region of St-Louis.

The first day is the day to get to know the city, take time to see the island and you may want to visit one of the projects working to improve the lives of the citizens like the ISRA gardens and eat a traditional Senegalese dish at La Source for lunch or the AFE school in Pikine and dine at their restaurant to support their efforts. You can also stopover at the environmentally friendly ovens on the Hydrobase used for smoking fish and take pleasure in a meal at one of the beach front hotels.

In the afternoon take a caleche ride or walk and swing by the cathedral to watch the bats leave the sanctuary of the trees, swoop down to the river and set out into the approaching night.

Day 2: PNLB

The following day take the trip down to the Langue de Barbarie to take pleasure in a full day and night there. After visiting the park, you can walk or bike around the surrounding villages. To the north, Tassinere has a historic lighthouse and a museum. To the south, you can visit one of the traditional moor (maure) villages on the dunes of the river (inquire about Cloclo for a guide to the village of Daar es Salaam, a friendly local who speaks some English), you can also organize a visit to have the local women decorate your hands and/or feet with traditional henna art and eat lunch in the village.

If you decide to eat or spend the night at the Zebrabar you can take a kayak (or other water sports equipment) onto the river. Of course, you can always choose to spend a mellow day on the beach. Spending the night is a great experience whether in a tent on the Langue, a bungalow at the Zebrabar or Teranga, or a khaïma (traditional Mauritanian tent) at the Ocean et Savanne (operated by the Hotel Residence).

Day 3: RSFG / S-L

The following morning take an outing to Guembeul, you can go out on bike, which is an easy ride where you can stop along the ride to search for birds or visit the towns along the way. If you would rather go in taxi, you can catch one outside of the park in the town of Mouït.

After spending some time at Guembeul exploring, return to St-Louis to plan your next few days in the interior of the region.

Day 4: PNOD

The morning of your fourth day, get an early start towards Djoudj, we recommend heading there in your own vehicle so that you can spend a night here. You can either hire a taxi to travel with or a car through the local guides, or rent one from the various rental places in St-Louis like Avis. A whole day in Djoudj means you will be able to see more of the park, with a boat ride on the marigot, and then perhaps a bike ride or drive into the interior of the park to the Grand Lac (Grande Lake) or a hike. There are three choices for where to stay and where to eat while you are there.

7 Day Visit(II)

Day 5: Towns on the river

Waking up on your fifth day will be simply amazing since the birds start their days early and you will spot them milling around the river and ponds as the sun rises.

From Djoudj you will be able to move towards the interior of the region, which has at least 3 or 4 different roads you can take depending on the adventure you are looking for. Don't hesitate to ask for directions, it is easy to get diverted in some cases, keep in mind that depending on the season, some roads may be impassable due to rains even with an all terrain vehicles.

• If you prefer not to take the risk, return to the national route on the same road that takes you to Djoudj. (This may be your only choice during and right after the rainy season.)

• Your second option is to take the same road you took to get to Djoudj, but take the fork leading to Ross-Bethio and the national route, you will save some time and get to see a different route.

• You can opt to take the road leading to the Grand Lac in the park until you reach the village of Diadem 1, here they can point in the direction of Rosso through the vast rice fields.

• The final, and perhaps most rewarding method is to follow the principal road in the park to the post de crocodrile at the northeast extreme of the park (another interesting place to visit if you desire). Continue along this road that traces the river and will take you directly to Rosso, the road is very easy to follow with surprising little risk of getting lost.

Keep in mind that the last two routes are shortcuts but may take longer since they are rough dirt roads. Anticipate about an hour and a half to two hours to get to Rosso. From Rosso, follow the national route eastward, making stops at Richard Toll, Dagana, Podor and on to the Île à Morphil crossing on the bac, or ferry, which is really entertaining and not very expensive.

As you make your way back you will see just how green and lush the river banks are and see charming villages, many of them traditional Peuhl and Toucouleur settlements. We recommend a night in Richard Toll, which has three comfortable options where you can lodge for the night.

Day 6: Lac de Guiers

After a good night's rest, the sixth day of your journey takes you south to discover the Lac de Guiers, the source that provides Dakar's drinking water. Both sides of the lake have a road and you can take your pick. The western side has the Campement Teranga du Lac De Guiers, where you can get lunch. If you take the eastern edge, which follows the river more closely, make sure to take a lunch. The ride is truly fascinating. Stop at the villages to inquire about pirogue (canoe) rides. They aren't expensive and they are a respite from the road.

Local fisherman claim there are hippos and even manatees depending on the season. While these would take some real luck to spot, you will at least see plenty of birds flying about, lily pads and plant life flourishing at the lake's edge.

You will be heading towards the town of Keur Momar Sarr where you might also like to stop to explore the marketplace or get something cool to drink. From Keur Momar Sarr head west following the well traveled road towards Mpal, be sure to check with people along the road to make sure you are traveling across the savanna in the right direction or give a traveler a ride in exchange for keeping you on the right track (though sometimes they might get you more lost! Be alert!) Once you reach Mpal you will be back on the national route and to north lies your destination: the city of St-Louis.

Day 7: relax and shopping in St-Louis

The last day of your time in St-Louis is your chance to get in some time at the beach, hitting the shops, the Village Artisanal, taking in the town before its time to say goodbye.

The MaB program

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On the 29 of June of 2005 the Delta of the Senegal River Biosphere Reserve was declared giving the region another resource in its effort towards conservation and development. The RSTDFS was declared as part of the Program on Man and the Biosphere, a worldwide network of biosphere reserves created by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). As of May 2008, there are 531 reserves in the world in 105 countries.

The MaB program has a threefold goal, the first being towards conservation of local species and ecosystems both terrestrial and marine. Second, it seeks to support economic development that respects local socio-cultural and environmental conditions. The third major goal is to provide logistical support for research, surveillance, education and training, and the exchange of information that works towards conservation and development on local and global scales. Senegal has four reserves (Samba Dia, on the Atlantic coast, Sine-Saloum in the Sine-Saloum Delta, and Niokolo Koba in southeastern Senegal) and the Delta which is unique in that it is transboundary. There are only eight transboundary reserves in the world.

The RBTDFS is managed by three inter-state bodies with a national committee in each country that is implicated in the planning and monitoring of activities. A transboundary committee is responsible for policy guidelines and the administering the budget. The Direction of National Parks is also closely implicated.

For more information about biosphere reserves, visit www.unesco.org/mab

Practical Information

2008-11-12T09:42:34Z

How to get and go around

You can get to PNLB via the tours offered at the Syndicat d'Initiative or you can book a taxi yourself. A common day trip involves hiring a taxi for the day who can take you to Guembeul (RSFG) and then on to PNLB. This is usually around 7000 cfa and includes the return trip. You can also use the taxi brousse located at the round point with the fountain at the entrance of the Faidherbe Bridge. You will need to ask the taxi the charge to the town of Mouït, which should not exceed 1000cfa (though prices have fluctuated rapidly). As always remember that you will then have to come back and taxis maybe unpredictable but should cost less than the ride down (roughly 500cfa). Always be ready for an adventure when using this mode of transportation.

There is a fairly standard stop in Mouït in the center of town, near a large, beautiful tree where the “market” is located and the community gathers. There is a sign on the corner that points you towards the entrance of the park; it is a very short stroll.

You can also bike to PNLB, but as always, plan carefully since you will have to bike those 15.5 miles back. This is a nice option since there are great stops along the road for bird watching where you may spot flamingoes or spoonbills, depending on the season.

The entrance to the park is 2000cfa per person. Guides cost a flat rate of 3000 and may very soon be made obligatory as they are at Guembeul. The most common tour people go for is the boat ride which costs 7500cfa for a group of 1-3 persons or 2500 per person for a group of four or more. The boat will take you onto the river and make a loop around the nesting island, they will also make a stop on the Langue where you can spend some time and take a dip in the ocean if you wish. Ask lots of questions as the guides are very knowledgeable about the local environment.

Bikes are also available for rental at the park. They cost 3000cfa for a half day and 6000 for a complete day.

The park has begun to offer a couple different options for seeing the park. There are two bird counts per month that guests may participate in. The 24th of the month is the walking bird count that departs from the entrance at 7am. This costs the normal 3000cfa for the guide and the park entrance fee. The 28th of the month is the river bird count which costs the boat ride plus the guide. There is an optional breakfast for 1000cfa. This also begins at 7am and ends around noon. Punctuality is important since leaving promptly is important for seeing the maximum amount of birds.

While spending time in the area you may want to visit the local museum in Tassinere (just before Mouït). The museum displays local beads and beadwork, traditional Senegalese clothing and has a room dedicated to the history of the area. It costs 1000cfa to get in.

Accomodation and food

The park has recently begun to allow some overnight camping. You must pay the entrance fee and acquire authorization at the front kiosk. If you need a tent you may rent one for 3000cfa, if you have one they simply request a contribution to the ecoguard's fund. You will have to negotiate for a boat to take you to the Langue if you wish to camp on the beach. This is great way to see the park in a different light…literally!

The park has a restaurant, the Heron Cendre (Grey Heron), which offers Senegalese plates for lunch, meat sandwiches and refreshments. The money goes towards ecoguards, who like at all the protected areas, are paid through their guides and fundraising efforts.

There are two private camps in the area. One, the Campement Teranga, is located between the town of Tassinere and Mouït and has bungalows to stay in. The area is very pretty and on the river. The Zebrabar is technically located in the park and you will have to pay the park entrance to spend the night. They have water sports equipment like kayaks available to their clients who spend a night or have a meal there. They have spaces to camp or bungalows and very clean facilities. It is also on the river.

Henna in hands and feet

Something you may enjoy immensely while contributing to the local economy is fuddën (pronounced fooden) or henna! Women in Senegal have a tradition of decorating themselves with beautiful patterns of henna in red or black. For 5000cfa you can have both hands and both feet covered, enjoy lunch in the village, accompanied by tea, of course. The process takes about 10-20 minutes per limb so the length of the day depends on how many people will be decorated; we suggest a maximum of three which can take all day )you must also count on some time to let it dry).

The process involves the application of medical tape cut in thin strips to mark the pattern, then the application of the fuddën which sits inside a plastic bag for awhile. If you wish, the pattern can be turned black with ammonia, but be sure to request it a head of time. The results stay on your hands and feet for about two weeks but can take three to completely fade. Nails remain stained until they grow out which can take three months. The trip is a lot of fun but keep in mind that you will become the attraction while you are there and kids will take great interest in your fuddën.

You can contact Rokhaya Ndeye Niang, in the town of Mboumbaye, at 76-386-08-22 to organize your visit, you must speak French. Some tips for getting your fuddën done: take plastic sacks, a small razor (can be purchased in any boutique) and socks, make sure you tell them if you want black fuddën (so they can buy the ammonia), they should buy the henna powder and the tape and remember to take care of any necessities before you hands get wrapped up in plastic. Enjoy!

Environmental Impacts

2008-11-12T09:39:02Z

Perhaps even more disastrous than blocking access to the ocean, however, is the steady salinization of water resources in the Gandiol community. While the collection of salt has improved, agriculture has become more difficult. Wells turn up with salt water in them and the community has suffered greatly due to this problem.

The local fishing has changed much in the way that fishing has changed in Djoudj: species are changing. The river was once a good place to catch fish of different species, not any longer. Even the species of crabs have changed and the boom of fiddler crabs you now see there is the result of increased salinization of the river. The river is less brackish and more affected by the tides than before the breach was cut.

Many can no longer make ends meet as fishing has become more difficult for men and agriculture, very often a woman's job, has become just as hard. Today Gandiol is experiencing a mass exodus. It has become one of the biggest sources of immigrants to the Canary Islands via boat in all of Senegal. People depart in the middle of night, piling up to a hundred or more at a time to travel days until they reach land. Often times they do not notify their families of their departure until they reach the Canaries or, worse, some never reach their destination. The community has felt the loss of hundreds of their men and youth and even women in search of a better life in Europe.

Saint-Louis: World Heritage Site

2008-11-11T21:52:52Z

An original but threatened colonial architecture

The historic town of Saint-Louis is an outstanding example of a colonial city, characterized by its particular natural setting. The location of the town on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River, its regular town plan, the system of quays, and the characteristic colonial architecture give Saint-Louis its distinctive appearance and identity.

In the first half of the XIX century, one finds Mediterranean architecture type adapted to the tropical climate and the colonial medium: a house around a court distributing light and freshness. They were firstly two floor houses with tiled roofing; on the ground floor large rooms primarily used as shops, opened to the street through large wooden doors. The front of the oldest houses were coloured out of ochre or pink and the entries stand out using outlined and painted framings. On the street side as well as in the courtyard, lined apartments with high wooden ceilings open up to balconies with wrought iron balustrades. The inside of these rooms offers a good respite from the heat.

At the XX century the city of Saint-Louis began to fell asleep, losing its economic and administrative capacity and involving the degradation or the disappearance of remarkable buildings. Confrontation between the actual position and the aerial cover of 1972 is alarming: many civil buildings were demolished or are in a state of ruins requiring a total rebuilding. 10 to 20% of the constructions are threatened of ruin building and more than 30% require major repairs…Besides, the rare restorations carried out do not respect the details of the original frontages.

Renovation Programme

Since the year 2000, after been inscribed on the World Heritage list, the municipal council of Saint-Louis Island adopted the Provisional Regulation for the improvement of the state of conservation and management of the architecture. This Regulation gives instructions for any rehabilitation, construction or improvement requests as well as a certain number of architectural recommendations. Soon, with the support of its partners, especially of the town of Lille's, Saint-Louis plans to obtain a Local Agenda 21 Programme for the conservation and the development of its exceptional site.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

History

2008-11-11T21:52:50Z

City Origins

The village of Saint-Louis has a European origin. In 1638, a French navigator named Lambert first builds a house on the island of Bocos in the middle of the river Senegal. In 1659, a Norman, Louis Caullier, decides to move this house to another island: Ndar. Closer to the ocean and better protected from the floods, it constitutes an almost impregnable strategic site. Thanks to the river, it is a good place for the departure of inland expeditions. A defence outpost is also built there in the place of the current Governance.

This outpost then grew to include a strengthened colonial counter with slavers, shops, kitchens, a prison, a chapel, barracks, a cemetery and gardens. For security concerns, the first establishments were built near the strong. The island was baptized Saint-Louis-du-Fort in homage to young French King of time, Louis XIV.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

Saint-Louis, economic crossroads

From 1664 till 1674, the French Company of West Indies had the monopoly, granted by Colbert, for the exploitation of the African and American domains of the realm of France. The name evokes the magnificent epic of the navy with sail, but also a magnificent commercial success, sometimes owed to adventurers without scruples. The French Company of West Indies was born in Saint Louis. It was called at first the Royal Concession of Senegal. It had for object the exchange of tissues, glass jewellery, and iron coming from France, against ivory, golden powder, oil, from palm and gum produced by Senegal. The slaves served also as bargaining chips. Very quickly, the Company realized considerable profits, assuring so the development and the prosperity of the town. Saint Louis became then a crossroads of the Atlantic, the Saharan and the Sudanese roads.

During period 1659-1779, nine trading companies succeeded one to another. Saint Louis is the main French establishment of the western coast but remained, until the appointment of the first Governor of Senegal Lauzun in 1779, a commercial counter that was considered marginal by the present big companies on the scene. In 1780, the population of the island reached 7.000 inhabitants including 2400 mulattos and 660 Europeans.

A Franco-African Creole, or Métis, merchant community characterized by the famous "signares", or bourgeois women of both European and African descent, grew up in Saint-Louis during the 17th and 18th centuries. The mixed races were important to the economic, social, cultural and political life of the city. They created a distinctive urban culture characterized by public displays of elegance, refined entertainment and popular festivities.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

HISTORY (Chp.II)

Slave System in Saint-Louis

For the first time in 1441, Portuguese captured and then sold Africans as slaves to Europe. It was the beginning of the slave trade, during four centuries, that it entailed the deportation of about twelve million Africans across the Atlantic Ocean. During 18th century, the Portuguese were almost the only ones to practice this business. But afterwards, the following century, the French, the English and the Dutchmen will launch “their own business”, provoking an important increase in the trade volume.

The 18th century was the most intense period for the Atlantic trade. Saint Louis played the important role of transit in the routing of the slaves of the interior towards the direction of the Americas. The most recent studies estimate that about 10.000 slaves a year were passing in transit by the island.

During the activity of the slave trade towards the Americas, Saint Louis also developed a particular kind of slavery: domestic submission. Every family had slaves allocated to housework and economic activities. So was born a slavery society which prosperity depended on the work of "captives”. For a long time, they outnumbered the free men. The decree of April 27, 1848 outlawed the “captivity” and the end of the slave trade but this practice continued until the middle of the last century.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

St-Louis, political capital

On September 13, 1827, the fort became the placement of the first government. In 1840, the first General Council was created and then Saint Louis became the political capital of Senegal.

From 1822 till 1827 the baron Roger built the "Maurel et Prom” company's building which was, for a long time, the most imposing building of the colony. He also built the current cathedral, which is Senegal's oldest one, a military and civil hospitals; the law courts built from 1844 to 1846; the barracks of Orleans and Rognat raised in 1830 and 1843; the sisters of Saint-Joseph of Cluny institution and the school of the Ploërmel brothers founded in 1826 and 1841 respectively; and finally the mosque, that was completed in 1847.

During the same period, the gum trade intensifies and attracts many rural inhabitants. The city counts in 1838 nearly 12.000 people. From 1820, Large French firms, many from the city of Bordeaux, took over the new commercial networks of the interior, marginalizing the Métis traders in the process. After the slavery abolition, companies like “Maurel et PROM” will rise along the quays of vast warehouses where the goods brought by the river and manufactured imported goods were exchanged.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

HISTORY (Chp.III)

The Rise and Fall of Saint-Louis

In 1848, the abolition of slavery leads France to doubt about the utility of keeping its two Senegalese bastions: the island of Gorée and the city of Saint Louis. But the English expansionist policy brings the government of Napoleon III to push aside the idea of abandoning these territories. Louis Faidherbe, a very smart officer who graduated from Polytechnic, becomes the governor of the colony in 1854. Internal fights characterize the country then. With a handful of men and reduced military materials, Faidherbe begins the reunification of the country.

In 1865 the bridge Faidherbe which connects Sor's continental district with the island is constructed. His large-scale projects included the building of bridges, provisioning of fresh drinking water, and the construction of an overland telegraph line to Dakar.

The golden age of the city extends during the last quarter of the 19th century. In 1895, Saint-Louis becomes the capital of l'Afrique Occidentale Francaise (A.O.F.) (French West Africa). In 1885, the railroad connecting Dakar to Saint-Louis arrives at Sor (current station only dates from 1908) and the Faidherbe Bridge is constructed. At that time the island counts about 20.000 inhabitants.

During the end of the Second World War, important changes are announced. Torn by two wars, France lost much of its authority and its prestige. The decolonization road was opened. On November 25, 1958, the Senegalese Republic, member of the French Community, is proclaimed. During the first years, the national political life will be essentially animated by Saint-Louisiens. Nevertheless, the start of the 20th century is also the beginning of the decline of Saint Louis and the emergence of Dakar. Dakar finally gets the title of capital of Senegal in 1958

Home to a society with a distinctive lifestyle, Saint-Louis has retained its unique identity. “No one comes without falling in love with the city," proudly say its people who consider Saint-Louis as the birthplace of Senegalese Teranga, the Wolof word for hospitability

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

Economy

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The fall of groundnut prices and the advance of desertification are the main problems of the region. The three principal sectors of the economy are centred on fishing, tourism and trade.

Fishing is the first exportation of Senegal but many other well equipped countries are currently exploiting this zone. As well, there exist no time restrictions (as in Mauritania) for fishing. Predictable result: overexploitation of this resource with a gradual depletion of fish stocks. Guet Ndar, a district of The “Langue de Barbarie”, shelters a strong population of fishermen, first economic sector of the city.

Tourism constitutes the second pole of economic development for the city as well as for the region of Saint Louis.

A Touristic and Cultural city

Saint-Louis is considered a touristic city, rich in history, geography, architecture and other characteristics as it has a maritime fringe of sandy beaches and a navigable river; two national parks closed to the city; an historical, architectural, traditional and colonial heritage; an international airport and an average annual temperature of 25 °C.

Saint-Louis is also famous for its urban culture. As a cultural destination, owns today an international dimension through many cultural events: The Saint-Louis Jazz Festival is the most important jazz festival in Africa, the "Fanals", which are night-time processions of giant paper lanterns, that take place at Christmas time and the annual regatta, or pirogue race organized by teams of fishermen from Guet-Ndar that takes place on the "little branch" of the river, between Ndar Island and the Langue de Barbarie. Here the fishermen find privileged moments for fun and they forget the sea dramas.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

Practical Information

2008-11-11T21:52:47Z

St-Louis neighbourhoods

St-Louis is a charming city. The old architecture takes you back in time but the music, laughter and noise are pure entertainment. Take time to roam around the island and the neighbourhoods, enjoy the wrought iron balconies, the shuttered doorways and windows, the colour and life.

The Sydicat d'Initiative, which is responsible for most formal tourist initiatives in Saint Louis, sells a wonderful map of the city for 3000 CFA in its office. Even though it was made in 1992, the maps still provides a very good idea of the layout of the city and how to find things. Orienting yourself is easy if you keep in mind that the ocean is to the west, Mauritania to the north, the river and the interior to the east and Louga and Dakar to the south.

St-Louis, or N'Dar in Wolof , is divided into many quartiers or neighborhoods which roughly divide into: Pikine, Sor, Corniche, Ile/Ville/Centre (the center located on the island), and Goxxu MBathe, Guet N'Dar, and the Hydrobase on the Langue de Barbarie.

As you arrive in St-Louis from the south, the first neighbourhood you pass through is Pikine, a densely-packed, economically marginalized community. The west side of Pikine is limited by a dyke that often overflows during the rainy season causing major transportation and health problems for its residents. The entrance of the neighbourhood and of St-Louis is marked by the garage where public transport arrives and departs.

• Sor

Traveling past Pikine you reach the Elton gas station you begin to enter what is considered the Sor quarter, which is in turn divided up into smaller neighbourhoods. Sor is the “continental” part of St-Louis, though in reality it is also a large island though you usually won't notice when you cross onto the mainland since the system of dykes also serve as little bridges. Sor has a large traditional marketplace, which constitutes a maze of individual shops selling food, fabric, and necessities as well as dozens of tailors. It is organized chaos and a lot of fun.

The area north of the marketplace is divided into smaller sections, but it can be identified by the Corniche, or river front that loops around the whole neighbourhood. Walking the Corniche is a nice way to get a view of the island from across the river and you will come across the Artisan Village (read below) and the Christian cemetery.

• The Island

In Sor, you will spot the round point with a fountain and the unmistakable symbol of St-Louis: the Faidherbe Pont. The bridge traverses what is called the grande bras (or large arm) of the river. The bridge is the only way onto the island, the historic centre and World Heritage Site. Every building on the island is considered to be historically significant. The island, most commonly referred to as en Ville, is divided into Nord (north) and Sud (south). In Wolof, the north is called Lodo and the south is Sindone. The Syndicat d'Initiative has its offices directly in front of the descent from the bridge in the large white building where the seat of the government sits. The building is surrounded by a large roundabout that is the dividing line between the north and south.

The island has some lovely places to relax and take in the view. The entrance of the Faidberbe Bridge can be great for bird watching in the early morning. In the dusk hours, during certain seasons, you may want to sit on the steps of the Cathedral to watch the bats leave their shelter (the fig trees adjacent to the Gouvernance) in search of food (they are fruit-ivorous, no worries!); you can catch them flying towards the river to get a drink of water before setting out. Both points of the island are great for finding a quiet place to look over the water.

• Langue de Barbarie neighbourhoods

Directly on the other side of the island from the midpoint or Place Faidherbe, is the bridge that joins the island to the Langue de Barbarie. You can cross on little pirogues that make the short trip across the petit bras (little arm) of the Senegal River, they usually cost 25cfa and leave from just north of the bridge. The Langue de Barbarie is home to the marché NDar Toute, a smaller marketplace than Sor's, but a maze nonetheless. You can also find food and fabric, and many tailors (read below). There are also such treasures as leather workers and women who sell beads, shells, and grigris (amulets used for protection).

Above the marketplace is Goxxu MBathe, a residential neighborhood that leads to the border with Mauritania. Below the marketplace is the famous Guet N'Dar or quartier des pecheurs (fisherman's quarter). This is the most densely populated neighbourhood in Senegal and one in which most families depend on traditional fishing for their livelihoods. Guet N'Dar is a neighbourhood shrouded in myth. Many guidebooks warn against entering the neighbourhood. The fact is that it is a somewhat closed community with even its own brand of Wolof, but the people in general only demand respect (although don´t be surprised to hear exclamations of “toubab!”—the Wolof word for white foreigner—as you pass through).

Guet N'Dar is another very marginalized neighbourhood, with few resources and very little sanitary infrastructure. It is the neighbourhood with the lowest average age, under 30 years old, meaning most of its inhabitants are very young. Many visitors are taken aback by the amount of children. There are several projects attempting to improve living conditions in this small area where there can be up to an average of 30 people per household. In Guet N'Dar you will confront a harsh reality but also a place alive with movement, colour, children, animals, music and laughter. If you do decide to visit the Guet N'Dar, bear in mind that you should not take pictures without asking permission, be cautious not to overstep boundaries, and make an effort to greet people, especially in Wolof, if possible.

The southern part of the quarter and the beach is used by the transformatrice, formidable women who spend their days smoking fish. The early morning is the time to see the boats arriving from the open sea to load their catch into waiting trucks filled with baskets of ice. Passing this area you will see the Muslim cemetery to the west as you enter the area of the Hydrobase, this is where famous French hero Jean Mermoz landed his plane to deliver mail to French West Africa. Now the area, which extends until the breach in the Langue de Barbarie, is a relaxed residential neighbourhood with a good selection of hotels on the beach.

Getting around

Getting around St-Louis is easy. Taxis are readily available and have a fixed price around 500 CFA, though prices have recently begun to fluctuate rapidly. This price may go up during nighttime's hours. Don't be surprised of your taxi man picks people up along the way. Getting from the gare routière (garage) at the entrance of St-Louis to the center should cost around 500 to 1000 CFA, but no more than that.

Some visitors have been told there are tolls to cross the bridge and such, this is not true. There are also small private buses or allhams (because they all say Alhamdoulilah across the front) that circulate around town; they are the ones with the young guys hanging off the back. Simply ask in what direction they are going, you will find they stop just about anywhere and cost about 100cfa. To get to the Hydrobase,—which is also walk able from en Ville—there are clandestine or clando taxis (private vehicles) that will take you for 125cfa, although you will have to wait for the car to fill up before setting off, and they aren't comfortable. They can take you alone if you pay a bit more. You can find the clandos at the descent of the small bridge that leads to Guet N'Dar.

Many visitors like the option of seeing the city in a horse drawn buggy. This is an initiative that the Sydicat d'Intiatives started some years back and one which has proved extremely popular. Local people were given small loans to fix up their carts and a circuit was designed to show tourists the city. The circuit takes about an hour and a half to two hours and takes you around the island and to Guet N'Dar. It costs:

• 6000 CFA for 1 person
• 5000 CFA (per person) for 2-3 people
• 4500 CFA (per person) for 4 people
• 3500 CFA (per person) for a group of 5-9 people
• 3000 CFA (per person) for a group of 10-15 people and
• 2500 CFA (per person) for a group of 16 or more

City tour around the Island

Once you cross the Pont Faidherbe Bridge you discover a society whose life style and conviviality are unique. A city of great structural wealth, bearing witness to its glorious past. By foot or in a horse drawn buggy through the streets whose evocative names (Repentigny, Anne-Marie Javouhey, Blanchot, Pierre Loti...) remind of past time, you can admire the city's sites following the urban walk created by the Initiative Syndicate.

Coming from Sor, on the continent, you can access the island of Saint-Louis only by one link, the Faidherbe Bridge (first inaugurated on October 19, 1897). This metallic structure is 507 meters long and 10.5 meters wide, that consists of 7 arched spans with the second to last having been conceived to pivot around a fixed axis to let ships pass through.

Once you have crossed the Pont Faidherbe Bridge, a large complex, communally known as the gouvernance, which contains the region's administrative offices, dominates your view. To the west, the gouvernance opens on a shady square, named after the governor Faidherbe, whose statue towers over the gardens. This communal space, used for the city's festivities, is bordered to the north and the south by two originally identical buildings. They are the old barracks of Orleans and they used to hold the military garrisons. On each side of this central square are the island's two districts, the South or Sindone and the North, or Lodo. During the itinerary, you can discover the old building and the city's typical architecture.

As you turn to the South, the first zone of European settlement, also called kertian (from the French chrétien, or Christian), you will find the cathedral, just around from the gouvernance. Consecrated in 1828, it was the first church in West Africa. You can admire its neoclassical façade, its advanced porches and its pediment surmounted by the statue of Saint-Louis. Towards the "Grand bras", or the large branch of the river Senegal, you can distinguish a beautiful white building with richly ornamented wrought iron balconies. Originally the siege of the General Council, it later became home to the Colonial Council, then the Territorial Assembly, the Regional Assembly and recently the Regional Cultural Center.

Heading towards the southern tip of the island, you will discover the old house of the Saint Joseph de Cluny nunnery. Its monumental staircase, with two circular and symmetric wings, is one of the more architecturally interesting originalities of Saint Louis.

Before coming to the southern tip, you can stop by the Ameth Fall High School, whose buildings were built in 1840 on the site of the first Christian cemetery. Its magnificent courtyard and the balance of its architecture make it a soothing learning environment. Touching the High School is the more modern building containing the Centre for Research and Documentation of Senegal (CRDS), which used to be the French Institute of Black Africa (1954). The centre is home to an important library, containing countless archives on the A.O.F. (French West Africa). As well, don't miss a visit to the museum and the modern art gallery.

The district across this expanse of water that surrounds the CRDS on the Langue de Barbarie is the fishing village of Guet Ndar. Further behind are the fisherman cemetery, and the Hydrobase, from which Jean Mermoz left for his historical journey across the Atlantic. To the East are the more recent districts of Sor, the modern Saint Louis.

From the northern point of the island, looking upriver, you can see the island of Bopp Thior where the first brick factory of the region was located. Coming back downtown at the limit of the Avenues, you find the Grande Mosquée, of Maghrebin style, was built by the colonial administration for the growing Muslim population. The bell tower, lodged in the mosque's minaret remains an enigma.

Closer to the center of town, two neighbouring buildings stand on the Marie Parsine Abdoulaye Seck Street : the Palace of Justice, built in 1841 and whose monumental wrought iron staircase is greatly admired, and the Military House whose architecture is so well preserved. This last building is said to have been erected on the ancient site of Governor Schmaltz's house, who himself is a survivor of the famous "radeau de la méduse." (The Raft of the Medusa)

Once you have completed touring the island, you can cross the Servatius Bridge, direction to the Langue de Barbarie.

Partially translated from the webpage: http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com

General Information

Banks

There are several banks in St-Louis and at least two automatic teller machines (ATMs) so acquiring money is not a problem. There are few places that accept a credit card and you will need cash to buy souvenirs in most places.

Internet

Cibers (cyber cafes that don't actually serve refreshments) are common and easy to find and cost about 200 to 300 CFA per computer per hour. Many hotels and one café now offer wireless internet.

Museums

There are two museums in St-Louis. One, the Jean Mermoz Aeropostale Musuem, is located adjacent to the Syndicat d'Initiative's office. The other, the Saint-Louis Museum, is on the southern point of the island where you can find out more about the history of the city.

Live Music

St-Louis has its fair share of clubs and places to listen to music even during the week. La Taverne has fliers posted all over town and always announces live music throughout the week. L'Embuscade also invites local artists to play live music on weekends. Both are located in the center of the island. The Aldiana welcomes artists who play the balafone and kora (traditional West African instruments) on weekends. The Bou El Mogdad is a cool bar that has live music on weekends and happy hour (two-for-one specials) from 7 to 9pm—it is located on the eastern edge of the island where the boat the Bou El Mogdad docks. The Marco Jazz, located in front of The Flamingo restaurant, is a cool, small jazz place with a small pub atmosphere. The French Cultural Institute welcomes all types of artists and performances, and also hosts film screenings, usually on Tuesdays.

Special events are held at the Quai des Arts, located on the north extremity of the island, where the main Festival de Jazz concerts are held. If you are looking for a more local scene, ask the local artists about their music and also where they are playing. They will be very happy to tell you all about their music and may have CD's for sale, a great way to support local artists. St-Louis also has an active rap and hip-hop scene, usually found in neighborhoods like Sor and Goxxu MBathe—ask around for more information.

Shopping

Shopping in St-Louis can be both a pleasure and a frustration. The city receives plenty of tourists and some vendors can be aggressive. The key is to just be patient. As in all Senegal, nearly everything is negotiable. If you love to bargain, this is the place.

Located in front of the Hotel Residence in the center of the island you will find an alleyway filled with wood carvings, djembes (drums), jewelry, dolls, paintings and tons more. This can be a great one stop shop, but it is a bit overwhelming. Prices shouldn't exceed 10000 CFA for bigger items, though the bargaining can start outrageously at 100000 CFA, be patient and have fun with it or don't go in.

The rest of Rue Blaise Diagne, the main street on the island, has many shops. One very cute boutique, Galerie Awalé, is found at the beginning of the street near the post office. It has beautiful, though sometimes expensive, items, but the prices are fixed, so head here if you do not feel in the mood for bargaining. Rue Khalifa Ababacar Sy has a cute boutique, Keur Serigne, owned by a friendly woman named Aida. Her prices are not bad, and she has pretty clothes that can be adjusted overnight to your size or copied. Next door to this shop is a music store, the Teranga Music Shop, where you can buy classic records (long plays) from all over Africa, cassette tapes or CD's. CD's are expensive in Saint Louis, and you may choose to have one copied for much cheaper. This is also a movie rental place with VHS and DVD's for 500 CFA a night.

Further down the street you will come to a wonderful textile shop and art gallery, the Atelier TËSSS. The cloths are made around the corner in a nearby courtyard on a large loom. The pieces are expensive, but there are some for 2500 CFA a meter and they are truly works of art. It is worth visiting just to admire the artists' handiwork.

Artisan Village

Off the island, in Sor, there is the Artisan Village. Any taxi can take you there by asking for the Village Artisanal. The collection of round, squat buildings was traditionally an area dedicated to handmade objects but fell into disrepair until one artist decided to revive it some years back. It has taken some time to recover and it is often overlooked because of its location. Most of what you find at the village is handmade and the artists are eager, unfortunately sometimes too eager, to show you their work. One older gentleman makes cloth on his loom right before your eyes and the sandal and shoemakers can custom make a pair for you if you will be in St-Louis for a few days. There are also tailors, jewelry makers and wood carvers. The village struggles to attract customers but is a nice collection of local artisans who take a lot of pride in their own work.

Ben Magec-Ecologistas en Action has collaborated within this Artisan Village designing a beautiful and colourful booklet (with a new logo for the Villa) and editing 10.000 copies, as an attraction for the tourists.

Clothes

As you wander around the market places you will notice the incredible amount of tailors. Many Senegalese spend impressive amounts of money on expensive fabrics and embroidery to make their lively and original clothes. You can make just about anything at the tailor shops and, if the work is simple, it can sometimes be made overnight. Fabrics are very diverse in Senegal. Wax is the common, colorful cloth that most people wear in their day to day. This costs from 700 to 1500 CFA for a meter (or yard, you will find that they are almost interchangeable!), but in St-Louis a fairly good quality is almost always 1000 CFA. Bazin is the solid color cloth with patterns in the texture, this varies in quality, but you can get some for 1000cfa a meter as well. Indigo, which you will recognize by the dyed indigo blue color, is more expensive as are fabrics that have some sort of dyework. Some varieties of fabric can cost up to 40000cfa for 6 meters. The best way to get western style clothes made is to take a sample, or model, of what you want.

Most Senegalese-style clothing like pagnes (simple wrap around skirts) or bubus (tunic-like blouses) cost around 1000 CFA (as always, negotiable). Men's caftan and pant ensembles cost around 3500 CFA. Western-style work is slightly more expensive, a dress can cost from 2500 to 5000 CFA. Embroidery varies greatly depending on the quality and complexity. Have clothes made is a fun and creative way to take the colour of Senegal back home with you and to contribute directly to the local economy.

The Signares

2008-11-11T21:52:42Z

Since the end of XV century The Signares existed in the Portuguese counters. In Saint-Louis, in spite of the drastic rules of the Company, not allowing their employees to bring their families from France, the inevitable happened: the two communities started to mix.

A few years later, Europeans living in Senegal could openly practise the “marriage with the mode of the country” and their descendants to get profit from the heritage rights. A white living with a “Signare” (of Portuguese Senhora), i.e. a woman (black or mongrel), familiarized with the French language and manners, enjoyed the best possible conditions. These women were African noble (“guêloware”), the equivalent of the French nobility and never married with simple sailors but with middle-class executives or French and English aristocrats. This cohabitation called “marriage with the mode of the country” lasted the time of the stay of the European spouse. Later, these children resulting from these marriages were sufficiently numerous so that the marriages were about the 80% of those in their small community. Since the middle of XIX century, those descendent started to occupy important positions in the administration and businesses, and their political and economic role will be continuing.

The Company Director, Jean Durand Baptist, described them as follows: “they are beautiful, soft, tender and faithful. In their glance, there is a certain air of innocence and in their language a timidity which is added to their charm. They have invincible leaning for love and pleasure”.

At the time of the French revolution, Saint-Louis counted approximately 1200 mulattos. The number of Signares is difficult to evaluate but they constituted the motive element of a lifestyle combining the character traits of the Wolof Society and the European Society, offering a particular attraction to the foreigners.

The distinctive mark of Signare resided in the number and variety of their jewels “covered with gold”. Hands, wrists, arms, ankles, ears... Each usable part of the head or their limbs was favourable for the ornament and for the handmade filigree jewels of the goldsmiths Moors as well. Their make-up also should be evoked: “they are blackened the edge of the eyelids with titie, they redden the inside of the hands with the juice of a grass, they make in the same way with the nails of their hands and feet and getting a red incarnates which lasts strongly during a long time”.

The Signares' residences were also places of distractions and rejoicings: The meeting were in small societies called “mbotaye”. Belonged to the same Mbotaye, Signares of comparable age and condition. The folgars, or balls than they offered in their houses devoted the European dances and made possible to deploy ostentation and beauty. Signares did not hesitate to quickly embrace Catholicism, to baptize their mixed children as well as the children of slaves.

The Faidherbe Bridge True Story

2008-11-11T21:52:40Z

The city of Saint-Louis-du-Sénégal was for a long time the capital of the colony known with this same name. Its administration and commercial area was built on an island. It is separated from the Atlantic Ocean by a thin 40 km[3] strip of sand called the Langue de Barbarie, which starts from Nouadhibou in Mauritania and extends all the way to Saint-Louis. The suburbs of Guet Ndar and Ndar-Tout are situated in this area (where the first African fishing villages firstly developed).

At the beggining of the colonial period, there were different types of boats used to get to the island, the pirogue being the most common one. Barges with a flat bottom shipped troops as well as horses to the island. The Pehules´ caravans (a tradicionally nomadic etnia) brought the flock of oxes across the Bop Nkior´s ford (Bopp Thior).

On June 10th, 1858 a ferry was inagurated, during the celebrations that took place that were chaired by Fairherbe. A polytechnic engineer, native of Lille, officer of the military engineering force, who was the Governor of Senegal from 1852 to 1865. Under his command, the French colonies in Western Africa had outstanding levels of organisation.

The ferry could ship up to 150 passengers. It also carried goods and animals, making 10 crosses a day. The cost of the ferry varied: 5 cents a person and 50 cents a horse, camel, ox or car.

As commercial activity intensified and the movement of people increased, this means of transport became insufficient, its capacity limited growth. A second boat was then introduced, and an emergency one for support was also needed, as animals were often rejected and this caused constant delays. The cavalry squadrons never managed to cross this part of the river in less than two hours, altough they were frecuently forced to intervene urgently due to the low security levels in the region. It was also common for this second boat to be swept out to the sea by the storms or that the chains of towropes would break, causing long interrumptions in the circulation of people and goods that could even take up a whole day.

The first Faidherbe Bridge: A Floating Bridge

In 1860, captain Robin, Governor Faidherbe´s interim (in the journey to the metropolis) managed an agreement with Prince Jérôme-Napoléon, Minister of Argelia and The Colonies, on the establishment of a permanent link. The construction of a floating bridge was agreed, constituted by 40 stretches of metallic plates – weighing 40 tonnes each – which together hold a wooden platform. The path of ships was assured as three of these plates could be removed.

The floating part was of 355 metres, for a total longitude of 680 metres. The complete work costed 400000 francs and it was inaugurated on July 2nd, 1865, the year that Governor Faidherbe definetely left heading to the metropolis. The path was appointed by the Imperial Council with the name “Pont Faidherbe”.

Not long after, a railway started operating between Saint-Louis and Dakar, causing a great rise in the exchange of commercial goods. The end of the railway was located on the continental part of Saint-Louis (Sor) what meant that the economic and political centre gradually transfered to this area of the city. In addition, in 1885, restrictions were established on the use of the floating bridge. By which, vehicles weighing more than 1500 kg were forbidden to pass over, due mainly to the narrowness of the wooden platform (4 metre) that made the crossing difficult for large vehicles.

Maintenance costs kept increasing constantly. A permanent team was there exclusively to empty the water filtered. The daily opening of the door for the crossing of the ships was more complicated than it was first thought it would be. However, inspite these inconveniences and the progressive degradation it was exposed to, the works remained on service for 32 years.

The decision of establishing a permanent connection

In his opening speech in the session that took place on December, 1891, in the County Council, the Governor proposed the Assembly to consider the possibility of contracting a loan assigned to defray the debts that the Colony had with the Metropolis, but also to accomplish the program of public works that were of real importance. Couchard appointed to his colleagues that the budget was presented and that it appeared to be accepted favourably, the advisers decided to negotiate a five million loan.

The final destination of the agreed loan was determined in the extraordinary session. The most important batch was reserved for the construction of a metallic bridge that would connect Saint-Louis to Sor. The concession of the loan was authorised by the decree on November 21st , 1892, with an interst rate of only 4%.

A public tendering process was held by the Ministry of the Colonies in Paris for the candidate companies for the construction of the bridge. This is how, The Faidherbe Bridge Commission, created within the County Council of Senegal received dossiers from five bidder companies. Two proposals are accepted, one from Noguier Kessler and Cº, OLD HOUSE Joly From Argenteuil; and the other from Construction Society of Levallois-Perret, old establishment of Eiffel.

The Election of the Final Project

The project presented by the Construction Society of Levallois-Perret, ex-eiffel, was considered technically better, so it was adopted by the County Council, backing up the opinion of the Technical Commission competent at that point, instituted in Paris by the competent Ministry (Colonies and Public Works).

However, the Service Manager of Public Works in the Colony, Robert, and with him some other advisors,had a different opinion. They considered Nouguier-Kessler and Cº project superior in design, from an aesthetic point of view. They gave rise to an intense debate and they ended up with the adhesion of the majority of the Colony Council, as the cost for both projects were exactly the same.

The chosen bridge was a “curved bridge”, built of steel bars, with a total weight of 1.300 tones. Its total length is of 508,60 metres. Its ends were of unequal lengths, one measuring 42,92 m, two other 36,55 m and five others 8,26 each one.

The building lasted from 1894 to 1897, two consecutive inaugurations were celebrated. The first one, provisional, on the National Day (14th July, 1897) by Chaudié, the General Governor. The ribbon-cutting was done by Mrs. Chaudié. The authorities saw how the rotative central part opened to allow the “Ardiente” ship to cross. 21 cannons were shot at dawn and dusk. Horse races and donkey races were also held (with bets on them included), yacht races, review of troops, distrubution of safety material needed by the citizens, torch marches, public buildings were iluminated and finally there were fireworks. The following day, Chaudié left to France on a work permit.

The second inauguration was held by the Prime Minister of the Colonies, André Lebon, through an invitation of the Provincial Council and the Municipality. It took place on 19th October. In his speech, León d ‘Erneville, President of the Provincial Council, reminded the authorities and citizens that the building of the bridge was covered clompletely by the local budget and that “it demonstrated that our colonies, so slandered, had more resources than it was first thought”. Once again the ceremony held a variety of parties celebrating the completion of the bridge.

Myths that still remain

The President of the Provincial Council reminded that the budget destined to the building of the bridge was exclusively provided by the Colonies. Were these declarations a response to the rumours held at the time which implied that the bridge was a present from France to the Colony?

Another myth also appeared: A bridge that was first destined to another Colony (Indochina) but that was finally diverted to Senegal?. However the biggest myths of all: It was going to be an Eiffel Bridge, but that the project presented by this Society was actually set aside by the Provincial Council of the Colony, who had chosen a project that was considered “the most aesthetically harmonious”, against the opinion held by the Metropolis.

Myths with seven lifes, just like cats. For a prove of this, just a read through the different french touristic guides available, which reflect the fascination for Gustavo Eiffel´s personality and that are not always that rigorous. An example, within others: The Guide of Trotamundos (French version 2003) where we can read this nonsense about the bridge: “Built by Gustavo Eiffel to facilitate travelling through the Danube between Austria and Hungary, sent to St-Louis on 1897, consequence of a great administrative error” (page 215). No comments.

Partially translated from the Web Page:

http://www.saintlouisdusenegal.com/pontfaidherbe.php